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The marina wakes up early. Before the sun burns the pink off the horizon, crews are already loading bait, checking lines, and swapping the kind of dockside predictions that sound half science, half folklore. One captain says the billfish were running blue water...
The first thing people say about Corcovado is usually some version of this: it feels like the world before fences. You hear it in the crashing Pacific, in the wingbeat of scarlet macaws overhead, and in the sudden hush that falls when everyone on the trail realizes...