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Surf Science

Surf Science – What Makes a Wave Spit?

Surf Science – What Makes a Wave Spit?

Pulling into a wide-open barrel is one of the most euphoric moments for a surfer. Time stands still as you race through your very own aquatic cylinder of joy, encapsulated by

Surf Science – The Climate is Changing, Will There Be Waves?

Surf Science – The Climate is Changing, Will There Be Waves?

Call it what you want — global warming … climate change … or my personal favorite, “global weirding.” Record-breaking weather events have become seasonal norms, as t

Surf Science – Hurricanes in Costa Rica?

Surf Science – Hurricanes in Costa Rica?

On September 18, 2017, six separate tropical systems were spinning somewhere within the Atlantic, Caribbean, and Pacific basins. Not to mention the powerhouse Category-5 Hurri

Surf Science – The Importance of Swell Angle

Surf Science – The Importance of Swell Angle

Surfers love to create unrealistic expectations about waves we’ve yet to catch. (more…)

Surf Science – What Makes a Good Surf Spot

Surf Science – What Makes a Good Surf Spot

Surf Science – What Makes a Good Surf Spot?

Surf Science – What Makes a Good Surf Spot?

Surf Science – Why Do Waves Break?

Surf Science – Why Do Waves Break?

Surf Science – Cold Water in Costa Rica?

Surf Science – Cold Water in Costa Rica?

Surf Science – The Science of Stoke

Surf Science – The Science of Stoke

The Science of Stoke: Why does surfing make us happy? The ongoing theme of this column has mostly focused on the science surrounding wave mechanics, surf-forecasting, meteorol

Surf Science: Tamarindo Spot Check

Surf Science: Tamarindo Spot Check

In the previous Surf Science articles, we have explored: how waves are created, the importance of swell period, the different swell producers of Costa Rica, and the weather me

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