If there is a heaven I know where it be. Under the folds of the “hills that roll through the sea.“
This profound quote originated in the mind of arguably the most stylish surfer of our times, Craig Anderson. The quote alludes to finding heaven within the breaking waves in the ocean (I would guess the tube). Whether you prefer a traditional surfboard, a boogie board, an SUP, or just body surfing, any wave rider can identify with the few seconds of euphoria felt from racing down the face of a breaking wave. This cerebral topic was covered in the April-May issue article, The Science of Stoke. But for this month, let’s focus on a topic with its roots in oceanography physics. Let’s explore: why do waves break?